Friday, May 31, 2019

5/29

Up before 6am, but of course it's already sunny. I tested the outboard. Yes i got it to start, with difficulty. You're supposed to start it with minimal throttle, plus choke. The way i managed to finally get it started was with no choke and max throttle. Headed out 6:45. The view of the mountains to the east, which had yesterday been obscured completely by clouds, is today magnificent! AND there's a humpback whale, not close but clearly visible, doing his blow, back arch, and tail display!

First i side-tripped down to the LeConte Glacier. From far off i could see what surely must be a line of ice chunks in the water. Folks have expressed concern over ice dangers, so, concentrating on that, i almost ran potentially aground on the shallows ahead of the ~bergs. But didnt. Due to the shallows i couldnt get very close, the glacioer itself hidden around the corner, but still it was cool seeing the ice ahead, and the snow-field mountains were awesome.

Then headed north. The trip to LeConte had been quite smooth, but now the same passage was quiterough, headed upwind against steep 3' waves. Mitey splashy on the windshield. Had to slow to 12, then 10, then finally 7 it was so rough.

Finally made it to another inlet, which got me off the rough. It had 2 branches. Took the south branch first toward the Patterson Glacier, but that 1 has retreated and wasnt visible. Then the north arm to the Baird Glacier. In fact i picked out a cove on the chart where i figured i'd wait out the wind, but found a small cruise ship already parked there. I didnt want to invade their privacy, nor did i want 'em looking down on mine, so i just sidled up toward the glacier and had a look. This one was low and back from the beach. Again, uncertain shallows kept me from getting real close.

So now where to park? I can get this small boat into some real tight places. I checked 1, but the shore was all solid rock, so likely the bottom of the inlet would be likewise. Anchors like mud and sand, something to dig into. So i continued to another long narrow slit on the chart, and to my great surprise found a USFS cabin in the woods at its terminus. I anchored close, and immediately went ashore in my inflatable to check it out.

Remember the 1 other time i've used the raft, i was quite dissatisfied with the oar arrangement. This time i removed the paddle ends from the oars, and just used those, 1 to a hand, each side of the raft, and that really worked well.

No one was there, but all was tidy. There were 2 woodstoves and even air mattresses. I was hoping for a trail to hike, but clearly the cabin is accessed by boat.

So back to my boat, i had to decide whether to push on, or stay here. It was such a nice warm sunny day, and the wave situation unknowable til out there, i decided to hang out here. Which i'm ashamed to say was kinda boring.

Cathy watches over me. No cell service here up the inlet, so we have a routine that everyday i must send a check-in msg via Gadget3. Today she complained i was late. I realized it's because i'm on Alaska time, 1 hr later.

Dinner: tangerines, boiled dry lentils with garlic, and a long-leftover pack of pears from an MRE.

The boat rocks slowly side-to-side on random wavelets, various stuff hidden somewhere CLUNKing with each roll. I search for the clunker, no luck.

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Almost to Skagway, my thots go to: what then?

The obvious answer: turn boat around, go back to Washington, indeed by different routes to see new country.

At least at this moment, i dont feel that excited about that plan.

Truly i am seeing some amazing sights. But that was not the purpose of the trip.

I wanted to again do something really challenging.

Now i feel like i've succeeded (when i get to Skagway). To turn around and do it 1 more time in the opposite direction doesnt (today) sound very interesting.

Further there is the dread of more engine trouble (especially in some remote location), and the 2 Capes, scary the first time, was i just lucky?

I do truly feel anxious to get back home and finally finish my house, that completion work that i've put off for years.

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So i'm sitting in the boat in my little slot cove typing this, and i hear a nearby sound like rattling sheet metal. What the hell? Then again. I look all around, hear it a 3rd time and just catch the last sight of a whale passing/blowing/breathing outside the cove.

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